Rettenbach - Bad Grönenbach: Jakobsweg Etappe im Allgäu| Persönlicher Bericht, Tipps & Erfahrungen

Pilgrimage under one hat - on the way with Sandra

Bavarian Swabian Way of St. James

Stage 12: From Markt Rettenbach to Bad Grönenbach - 24.7 km

View from the balcony door. Yesterday's wonderful view is history. It's cloudy, overcast and raining. The road is wet. Today my red rain poncho will finally be used again. I strengthen myself with the bought breakfast, pack my things and say goodbye to Mrs. Presence. She is so friendly and helps me put on the poncho.

She also recommends that I take a shortcut right behind the house up to the edge of the forest, where I meet again on the Camino de Santiago, which saves me a good kilometer through the city. I'm not going to say no, especially not with the weather.

It's uncomfortable outside from step one. It rains relatively lightly, but constantly. I cross the main road directly behind the house and walk gently uphill towards the edge of the forest.

Thursday, July 2nd, 2021

Here comes the rain again .... Falling on my head like a memory ...

Advice of the day:

Is it hot - kneipp with ice,

is it cold - it will be winter soon,

if it's wet - it's no fun!

Then I pass the Rettenbacher Kneipp facility with an integrated ice machine. Now of all times I don't need a Kneipp facility.

Today I will probably be able to practice kneipp in my shoes. I don't like eating ice cream in the rain either. And three times not at eight thirty in the morning. Then probably no ice cream for me. It's a shame, the day before yesterday I wouldn't have said no to that. You don't get such opportunities often, but always in the wrong place at the wrong time!

I think with concern that I probably won't be able to take breaks on the benches today because they'll all be totally wet and so will I. And the rain is now joined by a good wind. That’s going to be fun ...

Ambush attack

At that moment I notice that several angry young bulls are charging towards me from a distance of 50 meters from the right. They roar in anger and I freeze for a moment only to realize what is going on. Sure, my fluttering red cape upsets her. We are only separated by a measly low fence with two wire spools and I hope that there will be enough Power is on to stop them. I don't really want to take it down, because they look like they're going to roll down every high-security wing.

I take my legs in hand and run against the wind with mine red cape waving like a flag along the pasture. That only makes them madder, I see out of the corner of my eye how they change direction and come closer and closer with thundering hooves. They keep yelling at me. The scenario is probably a picture for the gods, but my heart beats with fear and exertion. Finally I reach the end of the fence, leave the cattle behind me and bring extra parameters between us. Even when I stop 200 meters away, I can still hear them raging. I have shaky knees. Bloody hell! I wasn't prepared for that at all.

I just didn't notice the animals as I passed the meadow. I hadn't seen them or thought about being an attraction. Oh great. If I pass as many male cows today as I did yesterday, I run away from cops all day. The day is now over for me.

What would the alternative be? Take off your cape? How does that work? Cow pasture ahead - Cape off? Danger over - cape on? Then I'll be soaking wet in no time and war the also wet thing no longer dressed anyway. And not at all in the wind. Total bullshit. So either brave with a cape or soaked without.

One thing is definitely crystal clear to me. This is the last time I'll have that red cape with me. I will definitely order a blue or olive green one.

It takes me a few minutes to recover somewhat, mentally and physically. Then I meet the next animal on my way. Fortunately, this is not aggressive.

The way is the way or the way is gone

As planned, I come back to the Camino de Santiago at the edge of the forest and follow it. It's been going well for a while, albeit slightly uphill.

Apparently, I am still mentally in the bull inferno, because next I suddenly find myself in the middle of an unmowed meadow. I was actually sure that the arrow was pointing in that direction. The grass goes up to my knee and is soaking wet. It's also going uphill. From the side, the wind puffs up my poncho, so that the rain, which is now pouring down, slaps directly onto my non-waterproof jacket underneath. My pants are soaked up to my thighs and it feels great every time. I can hardly see 20 meters from the rain. But what I miss right in front of me is the path. I turn around looking. The way is gone! I have no idea if this is the right place for me. And actually no choice but to go on. I can't take my cell phone out in this weather to find my way around.

Ambush attack

One thing is definitely crystal clear to me. This is the last time I'll have that red cape with me. I will definitely order a blue or olive green one.

It takes me a few minutes to recover somewhat, mentally and physically. Then I meet the next animal on my way. Fortunately, this is not aggressive.

The challenges don't stop there

Behind Ottobeuren it goes back into the forest. And - it starts to rain again. But at least it's not as windy as it was this morning on the slope. And there are no cows in the forest either. Always think positive.

At the hamlet of Niebers, I emerge from the forest, only to disappear into it shortly afterwards.

The next highlight of the day comes around kilometer 15.

An off-grid section takes me maybe two hundred meters on a narrow path steeply down the mountain, secured on the valley side by a ramshackle wooden railing. The ground is naturally wet, uneven, furrowed, interspersed with slippery stones and demands all my concentration. The path would have been okay in the dry state, but in these conditions I have to carefully feel my way down with my sticks. It would be unpleasant to injure yourself here now. The transition into one one and a half meter high nettle and blackberry forest that grows into the path is almost flowing. However, I don't know whether stumbling would hurt less here. I would really be interested to know when the last person walked this way before me. I feel like a pioneer while I knock the nettles aside. Needless to say, I haven't met a soul on the way so far. Today, however, I wouldn't even chase a dog out of the door. I also master this piece and am very happy when I arrive on a flat road at some point.

On this path we continue through the forest for the next three kilometers. Apart from short breaks, it remains uncomfortably wet and there are also imponderables that the storm probably left here the night before last. Twice I have to climb over two wet, old, uprooted spruce trunks that have fallen across the path. But at this point I just accept that.

I am relieved when I finally come out of the forest near Niederdorf. Fortunately, the rain is taking a break and so I treat myself to my second day's rest on a bench at the edge of the forest. I half sit on my rain poncho with it my almost dried bottom doesn't soak up again. I think the worst is behind me now, but I still have about 6 km to go.

Ambush attack

One thing is definitely crystal clear to me. This is the last time I'll have that red cape with me. I will definitely order a blue or olive green one.

It takes me a few minutes to recover somewhat, mentally and physically. Then I meet the next animal on my way. Fortunately, this is not aggressive.

Bad Groenenbach town hall

The city center and especially the town hall is really nicely designed with flowers, but unfortunately not to be admired in the weather.

I hobble back to my pension. I've definitely had enough for today.

After a shower and a little EM soccer on TV, I'll soon lie down. I can't really explain why, but I sleep badly that night.

Though I don't dream of cops.

Observations at breakfast

Ms. Thiel's breakfast compensates for all the stresses and strains of the previous day. It is just fantastic how caring, friendly and in a good mood the landlady takes care of all of her guests. I am completely enthusiastic about this good soul and the warmth of her heart. She finds the right words. We talk very pleasantly. I even get a book recommendation.

The four women at the next table are also very remarkable and I can't help but listen to their conversation with the lady of the house.

I think each of them has to carry their package, but once a year they meet in Bad Wörishofen, where they met years ago to a kind of revival celebration together with a larger group that is housed elsewhere. Of course, this year the gathering looks different than usual due to the coraona.

Even at breakfast indulge in beautiful memories together, laugh together, talk about their lives, enjoy the time together. What is clearly recognizable with the four and yet so rarely observed - they appreciate each other very much. And they take good care of each other.

Ms. Thiel even received a really official pilgrimage book from the Bavarian Swabian pilgrimage community. I didn't even know that there were such books

and I am happy that I can now write in it.

I feel very well in this house. On the one hand, I am sorry to learn that the hostess has to postpone her pension for another three years because of the losses last year. On the other hand, there is something reassuring for me that the fir tree will still open its gates for guests and pilgrims for a few more years.

When I leave the house, I put one

Pilgrim stone in the entrance area. I

think here is first In good hands,

until it is lifted.