.png)
Herzlich willkommen bei Frau Pilgerhut
Pilgerexpertin, Autorin, Pilgersteinmalerin
Pilgererfahrungen aus erster Hand
Pilgrimage under one hat - on the way with Sandra
Bavarian Swabian Way of St. James
Stage 11: From Bad Wörishofen to Markt Rettenbach - 22.6 km
Mittwoch, 01.07.2021
Tagebucheintrag:
Nach dem Gewitter gestern hat es über Nacht einen Temperatursturz von 15 Grad gegeben. Es ist bewölkt heute Morgen, die Luft ist frisch und fast schon zu kühl. Also mal eine sehr gute Wetterausgangslage. Trotzdem habe ich großen Respekt vor der Etappe, weil sie sehr lang ist und das Höhenprofil aussieht wie eine ausgepackte 100 Gramm Tobleroneschokolade . Ich bin gespannt, ob ich ankomme. Die Etappe wird bei Komoot mit „schwer“ betitelt. Aber das war die gestern ja auch schon. In diesem Sinne : Nur Mut, Sandra! Hut auf, und ab geht die Post – wir sprechen uns heute Abend wieder!
Es riecht nach Urlaub
Kaum liegt der Kurpark von Bad Wörishofen hinter mir und ich erreiche freies Feld, muss ich den Hut tief ins Gesicht ziehen; die Schnur unterm Kinn enger machen, sonst würde er mir vom Kopf fliegen. Zu windig. Heute ist erstmalig das Zwiebelprinzip mit mehreren Kleidungsschichten bei mir im Einsatz. Das hat den tollen Nebeneffekt, dass mein Rucksack halb leer ist und ich ihn kaum spüre. Dafür rieche ich umso mehr. Es riecht nach Irland, befreiend, frisch, angenehm. Nach nassem Gras und feuchter Erde und nach einem Hauch von rauchigen Torf. Gut, die Torfnote bilde ich mir wahrscheinlich ein. Ab und zu weht stattdessen ein Hauch Kuhdung vorbei. Wie an den Tagen zuvor, bin ich auch heute wieder allein auf weiter Flur, wandere vorbei an saftigen Wiesen voller glücklicher Kühe, während über mir die Bussarde kreisen und nach Beute in den wogenden Feldern Ausschau halten.
Als ich in den nächsten Wald eintauche stehen dort mittendrin, zwei verlassene Fahrzeuge. Direkt hintereinander. Irgendwie mutet das merkwürdig an. Aber am helllichten Tag wird der Fahrer des einen Wagens hoffentlich nicht die Fahrerin des anderen Wagens als Leiche im Wald verbuddeln...? Für alle Fälle merke ich mir mal präventiv die Kennzeichen. Zuviel Aktenzeichen XY…
Als ich den vorderen Kombi passiere, macht der Kofferraum einen unerwarteten Satz und das ganze Auto wackelt gefährlich in meine Richtung. Ein schwarzes, haariges Etwas bedroht mich lautstark aus dem Inneren. Herr im Himmel! Ich mache einen hektischen Satz in die andere Richtung. Wer bitte fährt mitten in einen verlassenen Wald und geht dann nicht Gassi mit seinem Hund, sondern lässt ihn im Auto zurück, bereit nichtsahnende Pilger zu Tode zu erschrecken? Stützt das noch zusätzlich meine Kriminalthese?
Onion with hat
The spa gardens of Bad Wörishofen behind me and I reach the open field, I have to pull my hat low over my face and the Cord underneath Tighten your chin, otherwise it would be off my head fly, so it winds. Today I use the onion principle for the first time. Undershirt - long-sleeved Shirt - fleece jacket - windbreaker. So far, the bottom three layers had only messed around in my backpack and so had my jacket, except for the hour we left yesterday morning. This has the great side effect that my backpack is half empty and I am half empty hardly feel it.
T he farmer and the church tower of Köngetried
The next place I set foot in is called Köngetried. Shortly after the place-name sign, it goes neatly up the mountain. So while I am winding myself up the street like a snail, a farmer sees me and comes running from his property onto the street. Although walking would have been enough not to miss me, I won't be past his property that quickly.
He is happy to see me and is very talkative, albeit in a decent Köngetrieder dialect that sounds very idiosyncratic. He gave me a neat history lesson about the place, which unfortunately I didn't can follow to the last detail. In any case, I understand that the church tower is called the leaning tower of the Unterallgäu because it has an incline of 2.5 degrees, which means that it protrudes about one meter to the north and half a meter to the east. In the past this was a weir system and he also explains to me how the slope came about, but I simply did not understand it.
He is also familiar with the Camino de Santiago and shows me Without my asking, the further way across all the villages, hamlets, farmsteads and cowsheds that are still ahead of me as far as Markt Rettendorf. The farmer lives alone on his farm and from his behavior it is clear to me that he's lonely and needs a family. He may be in his early 40s. But then don't let me suggest that he take part in "Bauer sucht Frau".
T he farmer and the church tower of Köngetried
The next place I set foot in is called Köngetried. Shortly after the place-name sign, it goes neatly up the mountain. So while I am winding myself up the street like a snail, a farmer sees me and comes running from his property onto the street. Although walking would have been enough not to miss me, I won't be past his property that quickly.
He is happy to see me and is very talkative, albeit in a decent Köngetrieder dialect that sounds very idiosyncratic. He gave me a neat history lesson about the place, which unfortunately I didn't can follow to the last detail. In any case, I understand that the church tower is called the leaning tower of the Unterallgäu because it has an incline of 2.5 degrees, which means that it protrudes about one meter to the north and half a meter to the east. In the past this was a weir system and he also explains to me how the slope came about, but I simply did not understand it.
He is also familiar with the Camino de Santiago and shows me Without my asking, the further way across all the villages, hamlets, farmsteads and cowsheds that are still ahead of me as far as Markt Rettendorf. The farmer lives alone on his farm and from his behavior it is clear to me that he's lonely and needs a family. He may be in his early 40s. But then don't let me suggest that he take part in "Bauer sucht Frau".
T he farmer and the church tower of Köngetried
The next place I set foot in is called Köngetried. Shortly after the place-name sign, it goes neatly up the mountain. So while I am winding myself up the street like a snail, a farmer sees me and comes running from his property onto the street. Although walking would have been enough not to miss me, I won't be past his property that quickly.
He is happy to see me and is very talkative, albeit in a decent Köngetrieder dialect that sounds very idiosyncratic. He gave me a neat history lesson about the place, which unfortunately I didn't can follow to the last detail. In any case, I understand that the church tower is called the leaning tower of the Unterallgäu because it has an incline of 2.5 degrees, which means that it protrudes about one meter to the north and half a meter to the east. In the past this was a weir system and he also explains to me how the slope came about, but I simply did not understand it.
He is also familiar with the Camino de Santiago and shows me Without my asking, the further way across all the villages, hamlets, farmsteads and cowsheds that are still ahead of me as far as Markt Rettendorf. The farmer lives alone on his farm and from his behavior it is clear to me that he's lonely and needs a family. He may be in his early 40s. But then don't let me suggest that he take part in "Bauer sucht Frau".
T he farmer and the church tower of Köngetried
The next place I set foot in is called Köngetried. Shortly after the place-name sign, it goes neatly up the mountain. So while I am winding myself up the street like a snail, a farmer sees me and comes running from his property onto the street. Although walking would have been enough not to miss me, I won't be past his property that quickly.
He is happy to see me and is very talkative, albeit in a decent Köngetrieder dialect that sounds very idiosyncratic. He gave me a neat history lesson about the place, which unfortunately I didn't can follow to the last detail. In any case, I understand that the church tower is called the leaning tower of the Unterallgäu because it has an incline of 2.5 degrees, which means that it protrudes about one meter to the north and half a meter to the east. In the past this was a weir system and he also explains to me how the slope came about, but I simply did not understand it.
He is also familiar with the Camino de Santiago and shows me Without my asking, the further way across all the villages, hamlets, farmsteads and cowsheds that are still ahead of me as far as Markt Rettendorf. The farmer lives alone on his farm and from his behavior it is clear to me that he's lonely and needs a family. He may be in his early 40s. But then don't let me suggest that he take part in "Bauer sucht Frau".
Stage destination Markt Rettenbach
I am very happy when I arrive in Markt Rettenbach. Right next to the market square is the church of St. Jakobus, where I put my today's stamp into the passport. There is also an attached note on the possibility of staying overnight in the Presence house. My pilgrim accommodation today, which I have already booked in advance.
A heavy shower sets in, just as I am at church want to leave again. That's too hard for me, so I'd rather wait and crouch in the entrance until the rain subsides again. Around 5 p.m. I reach the Presence house on the outskirts of Markt Rettenbach and am welcomed by a very nice landlady, their two old children's rooms on the first floor, which the children have now outgrown, now rented to pilgrims. There is everything a pilgrim's heart desires, a refrigerator with drinks, dishes, tea maker, funny printed toilet paper, but unfortunately no breakfast. My room has a great balcony with a wonderful view. First I unpack my feet - ouch, the bladder has enlarged a lot and does not look so healthy anymore, but it is still tight. I thank the developer of the blister plaster.
Letzter Satz heute im Tagebuch:
Mein Lieblingstag. Rundum zufrieden!
Information on stage 11
_edited.jpg)
My pilgrim-friendly overnight stay:
Hannelore presence
Kneippstrasse 4th
87733 Markt Rettenbach
You can find the gpx tracks for Bavarian / Swabian here:
https://www.pilgern-schwaben.de/augsburg-bad-woerishofen-bad-groenenbach/
